So Italians defiantly run on Italian time. Which is fine, as long as you're prepared for it. Picking me up at 12:00 turned into 12:30 and in the mean time, I found tickets for the ferry for half price! Twenty euro instead of forty! Great. They even gave them the online price at the office because they didn't have time to get them online and I had called ahead. :) Yeah for saving money!
We had a great time on Inishmore, which is the largest of the Aran Islands. We went for a walk along the harbour and beach then to a shop. Aran Islands are well known for being Gaelic (here they just say Irish) speaking (although anyone related to tourists speaks English) and for their wool and knitting. The sweaters were beautiful but were a thick knit and 60 euro plus! So I settled for a nice hat for 8 euro. It's VERY warm. It's great. It's just blue and black yarn and is made of Merino wool. I love it. Not as stylish as my last cap with the bow, but much warmer.
We settled into the hostel and the manager (warden) is Italian so he hit it off with Arianna, Lia, Anna and Sam. They were very excited to find out there was a stove top espresso maker so we had an espresso before bed and then saved the last of the grounds for the next morning.
The next day, we rented bikes and toured the island. It is quite steep in places, but there are really nice bike paths. A lot of people bike because there aren't too many cars besides the tour mini buses. It was grand and we had great weather, but it turned into a sunburn for me. The Italians were used to the sun, but alas, my Washington skin was too fair and I am now a lobster.
Marco, the warden at the hostel, told us the boat left at 5 but it turned out it was actually 5 for Galway and 4 for Doolin. Most people go to Galway, but we needed to get back to the car in Doolin. Luckily, we all made it back just in time and arrived safely and happily in Doolin.
From the ferry dock, we drove to Galway (yeah for Italian GPS!) and attempted to find food at 9p. Most places closed their kitchens at 9 or 9:30 so we tried a few places before finding one that was still open. We ordered three dishes between the five of us and then when we were still hungry, we found out that our first order was one of the last of the night before their kitchen closed. So we searched Galway and found McDonald's for ice cream for two of us (Rolo shake for me! I know, I know, I know... but you have to do it sometimes otherwise you're not really European if you never go to McDonald's) and an Irish-McDonald's for two others. From there, we went to Tesco, a shop that was open 24-hour, and bought ingredient for pancakes. I was also getting sick, so I got some lozenges and lotion for my sunburn (I'm just falling apart slowly...).
In the hostel, we met a boy from Toulouse, France and invited him for pancakes. It turned out he was going on a day trip to Cliffs of Moher the next day, so he wasn't able to join us. They didn't turn out anyway. The flour here is different. I tried with the self-rising flour and they didn't work. Yesterday, I found pancake mix in the shop, so I bought some for next time. It's a small package so will be easy to carry around until I use it.
We went for a real Irish breakfast- Italian/American style: for five of us we got two plates and it was filling. Very good. Even the blood sausage and white sausage. We then drove North and after a few wrong turns (it's an Italian GPS! :) ) we arrived in Westport, my stop!
I was sad to leave them. There is something you cannot understand about Italians drives without experiencing it: at various times, they were singing opera (serious and goofy), songs from Italian cartoons including my personal theme song when I was with them "Magica Emi", and singing along to Disney movie songs, in Italian, along with their iPod (two with a headphone ear each, the others without. It was so much fun and didn't matter if we were running late or took a wrong turn or whatever. Very relaxed and fun. It was nice. Thanks Arianna, Lia, Anna and Sam! Grazie mille! I'll come stay with you in Bologna, Lia! You can teach me more Italian and I'll teach you more English! They do have a lot of energy, so when I arrived at the hostel in Westport, it was great to find out I had the WHOLE place to myself!
I left them, after ciaos and grazie milles and an hour after they left, I realized my black North Face coat was in their car still. Merde. I had used it as a headrest in the back seat and it must have slipped back by the window. I'm still trying to get ahold of them but their number doesn't go through (it may be wrong or I can't call to Italian numbers maybe) so I'm still awaiting their response. I have a CS host in Belfast who they can mail it to and then I'll just pick it up there before heading to Scotland. They leave from Dublin in four days so will return the car then and will hopefully find it if they haven't already.
I just wandered Westport my first day, taking in the sunshine and taking it easy. It's a nice town. Not too small, not too big. Two main streets and a canal-like river running through it. I found a SuperValu and got some sauce for pasta. Not real Italian pasta like we had in Kilronan (on Inishmore Island) but it will do for me. I spent a lot of time online waiting for a reply from the Italians about my coat, but nothing yet. I didn't realize the computer cost for Internet otherwise I would have used my computer with wireless for free, but instead paid the hostel owner 2,50 euro today. That's ok though- since I'm waiting here in the hopes of getting my coat and she is full in the dorm room, she's only charging me for a dorm bed but I'm in a four bed room (instead of 8). So I pay 20 euro instead of the 24 euro it would be for the four bed room.
This morning, I went to Croagh Patrick. Croagh Patrick is a hill/mountain depending on if you're from Washington (hill) or Ireland (mountain). It's about 780 metres up I was told, or 2,500 feet above the bay. This is the summit where St. Patrick fasted for 40 days and rang his bell to drive out all the snakes from Ireland (there were never snakes to begin with, but it was symbolic of pagan beliefs). It was really quite a steep climb up and took me about three hours to the summit, where there is a church and not much else. It is very rocky, so it was quite hard going, especially the last hour because the rocks are loose and it can be hard to get good footing. I probably could have done it in less, but I am quite social in these things and asked most everyone who passed me how long to the summit, just to get them talking. I met a couple from Idaho (Ponderosa State Park is what I was trying to think of, but it's farther Northwest than I thought), Vancouver (they go to Mt. Baker often! Wave hi to my family!), Chicago, Minnesota and then a guy, Sam, from Zurich, Switzerland who is traveling for a while and I may go visit in Zurich!
At the summit, it was a great feeling. I had conquered the mountain! Not in record time, but I met so many people coming down who had not made it the whole way that it felt really good just to make it. Being sick and taking a lot of water and food breaks was really important for me and I'm just glad I made it. There isn't much beyond a church at the top. Croagh Patrick is used as a pilgrimage site for many and the most serious do it barefoot. I can't imagine that. It is so rocky there and so steep, that would just be too much for me. While I was looking around, I met two Frenchmen who asked me to take their picture and they took mine, I got some photos of the landscape and then the fog rolled in.
Not being able to see much, I went back down the mountain and was hollered at by Mathieu (pronounced Matieu, not Matthew... he thinks the English TH is ugly), the youngest Frenchman, from just off the path to come take a break with them. I sat and chatted with them for a while. They were five people, two women and two men, all 40s or 50s and Mathieu, the youngest, who spoke the most English and was the most outgoing. Mathieu and I talked the whole way down and he helped me over slippery and steep spots (it was starting to rain so getting mildly dangerous) and he taught me a bit of French and we just talked about traveling and it was really great. You don't notice how hard something is on your legs when you have company.
At the base, we did photos and exchanged emails. He drew me a sketch of Croagh Patrick and I wrote him a limerick about our trip and he said I was welcome to visit him in France when I make it there.
Back at the hostel, I met some Northern Irish hill walkers. I ate my dinner with three of them, Gerry (an older gentleman who helped me planning my trip), Paddy (?) who I can't understand at all and David who was the easiest for me to understand and nearest my age. The whole time, I just tried to figure out what the hell they were saying. Their accent is so different, even they couldn't tell what each other were saying. I felt like I was just a sentence behind them in translating from the accent to mine. I think I got on better when Arianna, Lia, Anna and Sam were speaking Italian! It was funny but I was getting sicker, so after a cup of tea and three (small) glasses of wine, I am blogging and then off to bed.
Tomorrow I am going to go the Derry. I'll try hitch hiking (it's quite safe here) on the route that Gerry showed me but if it doesn't work, I'll just take the bus. Hopefully the weather won't be too cold since I don't have my warm coat but I can layer like it's nobody's business. :) That is, as long as I can walk. I'll have to stretch tonight and tomorrow morning to recover from my hike.
If you've gotten this far and still don't know what molto carino means, email me or leave a comment and I'll tell you. If you've figured it out, perfetto!
21 May 2009
18 May 2009
Il dolce far niente in Doolin, Ireland
I've had a nice relaxing day in Doolin. Il dolce far niente. The sweetness of doing nothing. I did do some, but not much. I did laundry, washing everything but my dress (which I wore). I read my book, Eat, Love, Pray, by Elizabeth Gilbert and am in the Italian chapter of the book where she talks about the sweetness of doing nothing so it was ironic that I read it on my most relaxing and laid back day.
In the evening, I met with Madori and we made dinner next to four Italians. One, Arianna, spoke great English, one spoke some English, Sam was shy with English and Lia was learning from Arianna. They were very nice and used my computer to transfer their photos to their flash drive. I decided I am the technology ambulance. I recharged an French girl's mp3 player last night, Madori's iPod today and now the Italian's photos. It's good to be able to help people out and it allows you to meet more people. I talked with them (and Madori) for a while and they taught me a little Italian then asked it we were going out to the pub, so we joined them for music at McGann's pub.
McGann's, like most other pubs in Doolin, has trad music (traditional Irish music) every night so even though it was Sunday, there was still a full pub. We got a combination of Guinness, Irish Coffees and glasses of Baileys and just talked. Usually English, but often with the Italian translation from Arianna. They taught me quite a few new words then three of them left me with Lia, who is learning English, so they could go smoke (they are Italian, after all). We learned that the more animated we were and the slower we spoke, the easier it was to understand each other. We taught each other new words with drawing with our fingers, acting out and describing with words we did know. Lia taught me polipo, which is octopus and I taught them goofball because Sam, the guy, is silly. We had a lot of fun and were exhausto at the end. It's difficult to learn a new language, especially after a few pints. It really takes it out of you, but it was great.
I made plans with them to go to Inishmore, on the Aran Island, today and they are at breakfast now and will come back at noon to get me so we can drive to the ferry dock. We are staying overnight on the island and then coming back to Doolin and then I will go to Galway maybe with them in their car, but it will be crowded with five of us. Good language experience though. I've been inspired by Madori learning English so quickly and the book I'm reading where she is doing a "tandem language exchange" where she meets an Italian for coffee or lunch a few times a week and teaches each other new words and practices together. That will be me for the next few days. I will teach Lia some more English and she will teach me Italian. Arianna will translate if we need it.
Thirty minutes and then we will leave for the ferry but we are running on Italian time, so maybe 45 minutes. :) Ciao!
In the evening, I met with Madori and we made dinner next to four Italians. One, Arianna, spoke great English, one spoke some English, Sam was shy with English and Lia was learning from Arianna. They were very nice and used my computer to transfer their photos to their flash drive. I decided I am the technology ambulance. I recharged an French girl's mp3 player last night, Madori's iPod today and now the Italian's photos. It's good to be able to help people out and it allows you to meet more people. I talked with them (and Madori) for a while and they taught me a little Italian then asked it we were going out to the pub, so we joined them for music at McGann's pub.
McGann's, like most other pubs in Doolin, has trad music (traditional Irish music) every night so even though it was Sunday, there was still a full pub. We got a combination of Guinness, Irish Coffees and glasses of Baileys and just talked. Usually English, but often with the Italian translation from Arianna. They taught me quite a few new words then three of them left me with Lia, who is learning English, so they could go smoke (they are Italian, after all). We learned that the more animated we were and the slower we spoke, the easier it was to understand each other. We taught each other new words with drawing with our fingers, acting out and describing with words we did know. Lia taught me polipo, which is octopus and I taught them goofball because Sam, the guy, is silly. We had a lot of fun and were exhausto at the end. It's difficult to learn a new language, especially after a few pints. It really takes it out of you, but it was great.
I made plans with them to go to Inishmore, on the Aran Island, today and they are at breakfast now and will come back at noon to get me so we can drive to the ferry dock. We are staying overnight on the island and then coming back to Doolin and then I will go to Galway maybe with them in their car, but it will be crowded with five of us. Good language experience though. I've been inspired by Madori learning English so quickly and the book I'm reading where she is doing a "tandem language exchange" where she meets an Italian for coffee or lunch a few times a week and teaches each other new words and practices together. That will be me for the next few days. I will teach Lia some more English and she will teach me Italian. Arianna will translate if we need it.
Thirty minutes and then we will leave for the ferry but we are running on Italian time, so maybe 45 minutes. :) Ciao!
16 May 2009
Relaxing at the Cliffs of Moher... in the wind and rain
I've had some relaxing but adventurous few days here.
When I last blogged, I was getting ready to leave with Allison, an Australian I met at the hostel in Dingle. We left around 3 and four hours drive and a ferry ride later we were in Doolin. It's not remote, but it is a very small town. There's a lot of music here. Every night the pubs (which outnumber shops) have music. It usually starts around 9. We got to town around 8p and we were staying in different hostels, which I figured was ok. Mine turned out to be very institutional, very clinical and overrun with a group of 20 17-19 years old German students over for a school trip. They were nice kids and I ended up going to the pub with them. Only slightly odd to meet a group of school kids and seeing them all drink beer on a school trip, but welcome to Europe! They were great- only three girls in the lot of them so I hung out with them. When I was listening to the music I recognised the sweater of Catherine, who I met in Cashel over a week ago! We talked a bit and made plans to meet the next day to the Cliffs of Moher. They're two hour walk or 20 minute drive and she had a car so it was great!
She picked me up and had a car load of other people from the hostel who were just getting a ride with her. It ended up being just Catherine, me and Madori. Madori is amazing! She's Japanese and went to Dublin for a month to learn English with a private tutor and has been speaking it now for just two months! She's learned so much! It's really amazing! And she's learning all the time. I've learned that phrases don't always mean the same as the words they're made of which makes them hard to explain. Today she learned "cool beans" from a kid who walked by and I just told her it meant "cool". She's funny and really easy going so it was good to spend time with her.
The Cliffs of Moher were rainy, cloudy and windy. It was still really beautiful though- evocative. We parked about a kilometer away so we didn't have to pay 8 euro for parking. The walk there was really nice. Views from every angle and one minute it may be cloudy and the next clearer (but not clear). There are puffins there that only come for a few weeks before going to South Africa, so we were luck to see them. A ranger pointed them out to Catherine and we would have completely missed them if he hadn't said anything. Catherine had binoculars with her, so we really got to see them better than most. We went into the displays they had set up and learnt why the weather is the way it is, how they were formed and lot of other facts and stories.
From the Cliffs, we came back to their hostel and I realised just how much better it was so I talked to Karl, who runs the hostel, about moving in for the weekend. He said it was ok and was happy to have me so I was very glad to leave my sterile, soulless hostel! We picked up Allison (who gave me the lift from Dingle) and went to lunch for pub grub. I had Chicken and Cheese Panini, chips (French fries) and salad. It was really good and only 8 euro. Catherine got apple crisp (they don't have it in Switzerland so she was very excited about it) and shared with all of us. She's very generous and Madori and I decided she is our mother here, always making sure we're happy, have food, water, toilets, time, everything. In Cashel, she was the one who I had dinner with (and her friend, Thierry, who is gone back home now) and paid for it all because "it's not that much more for one person after two." She's really a great person.
After lunch, we went around the countryside and found some wedge tombs and portal tombs that were prehistoric. They are just in a cow pasture off the road, no trail going to them, sometimes a sign pointing in the general direction and maybe steps built into the stone wall to get over from the road. Some were from 4000 BC! Amazing. And the sun had started to come out by this point, so it was even better.
With the sun out we went back to the Cliffs of Moher and it was almost a totally different place. It was beautiful in a very different way. No wind so we could hear the birds more. It was around 7p by this time and the sun sets at 9:20p these days! So much sunlight. You almost forget to eat dinner until 9, which is what we did that day and what will probably happen tonight with Madori and myself.
We came back for a feast of white sausage, tomatoes, noodle veg soup, bread, garlic toast, fried rice and Japanese tea. Madori's mother teaches tea ceremonies so she showed us some things. When you serve two cups at once, you fill each halfway, then wait, then fill up each bit by bit alternating pours between cups. It was interesting to learn about Japanese culture in Ireland but that's what this trip is all about!
I went back to the sterile hostel since I had paid already and in the morning I moved to this hostel and I am so much happier. I hadn't met many people at all besides the German students and here I've met some many more people in much less time. At the other hostel, I never even met my roommates because one of us was always sleeping or gone while the other was up but here I'm in the common room and just waiting for Madori to make dinner. It's the same price, just a ten minute walk away so first thing in the morning, I checked out and moved here.
On my walk there, Catherine and Madori drove by, honking, saying they were glad to catch me because they were going to a Slow Food Festival in Lisdoonvarnna, about 15 minute drive away. We went back to the hostel so I could check in and get some food and then took off for the festival. There was a lot of organic, local food and plenty of samples. I think I got full just on samples. Breads, jams, sauces, cookies, loaves, quiche, cheese and much more. It was great. We got some picnic supplies after walking around for an hour (two loops- one to try things and look, the second to buy) and then had another feast outside at the picnic benches, right in the wind. It was still great and we all shared with everyone.
Coming back to the hostel, Catherine left for Dingle and Madori and I made plans for dinner. Well, not really plans, we just planned on making something for dinner sometime, and after tea and a biscuit (cookie) I went for a nap and now I'm blogging and emailing and then will read until she appears. Probably pasta, leftovers from the Slow Food Festival, a bottle of wine we bought (for 10 euro it was the cheapest I've seen outside of cheap convenience stores) and whatever else we find.
I'm sitting by the fire now and there around about a dozen people in the common room which is a little lounge area by the fire and two big dining tables. I'm apparently the person to go to with questions and request. An Australian, Megan, just asked me if I could email her my pictures of the cliffs because "they were better than the postcards"! That sure made me feel good.
An American from California, Heather is studying for her Masters in London and first asked me if I thought it was ok to put her coat straight on the stove to dry but I suggested on the back of the rocker so it didn't melt. :) Also, she asked why people were putting newspaper in their shoes by the fire so I told her it was to absorb more liquid and let them air out more and that maybe she could take out the insoles, too. People are funny sometimes. I have no idea if my answers to her were right, but I obviously seemed certain enough that she followed them.
I just saw a guy walk by with a Seattle Mariners shirt and he's from just South of Olympia. He just finished studying in Austria so is traveling before he goes back home. Good idea. It costs so much to get her it's good to use the time once you're already here to travel.
When I last blogged, I was getting ready to leave with Allison, an Australian I met at the hostel in Dingle. We left around 3 and four hours drive and a ferry ride later we were in Doolin. It's not remote, but it is a very small town. There's a lot of music here. Every night the pubs (which outnumber shops) have music. It usually starts around 9. We got to town around 8p and we were staying in different hostels, which I figured was ok. Mine turned out to be very institutional, very clinical and overrun with a group of 20 17-19 years old German students over for a school trip. They were nice kids and I ended up going to the pub with them. Only slightly odd to meet a group of school kids and seeing them all drink beer on a school trip, but welcome to Europe! They were great- only three girls in the lot of them so I hung out with them. When I was listening to the music I recognised the sweater of Catherine, who I met in Cashel over a week ago! We talked a bit and made plans to meet the next day to the Cliffs of Moher. They're two hour walk or 20 minute drive and she had a car so it was great!
She picked me up and had a car load of other people from the hostel who were just getting a ride with her. It ended up being just Catherine, me and Madori. Madori is amazing! She's Japanese and went to Dublin for a month to learn English with a private tutor and has been speaking it now for just two months! She's learned so much! It's really amazing! And she's learning all the time. I've learned that phrases don't always mean the same as the words they're made of which makes them hard to explain. Today she learned "cool beans" from a kid who walked by and I just told her it meant "cool". She's funny and really easy going so it was good to spend time with her.
The Cliffs of Moher were rainy, cloudy and windy. It was still really beautiful though- evocative. We parked about a kilometer away so we didn't have to pay 8 euro for parking. The walk there was really nice. Views from every angle and one minute it may be cloudy and the next clearer (but not clear). There are puffins there that only come for a few weeks before going to South Africa, so we were luck to see them. A ranger pointed them out to Catherine and we would have completely missed them if he hadn't said anything. Catherine had binoculars with her, so we really got to see them better than most. We went into the displays they had set up and learnt why the weather is the way it is, how they were formed and lot of other facts and stories.
From the Cliffs, we came back to their hostel and I realised just how much better it was so I talked to Karl, who runs the hostel, about moving in for the weekend. He said it was ok and was happy to have me so I was very glad to leave my sterile, soulless hostel! We picked up Allison (who gave me the lift from Dingle) and went to lunch for pub grub. I had Chicken and Cheese Panini, chips (French fries) and salad. It was really good and only 8 euro. Catherine got apple crisp (they don't have it in Switzerland so she was very excited about it) and shared with all of us. She's very generous and Madori and I decided she is our mother here, always making sure we're happy, have food, water, toilets, time, everything. In Cashel, she was the one who I had dinner with (and her friend, Thierry, who is gone back home now) and paid for it all because "it's not that much more for one person after two." She's really a great person.
After lunch, we went around the countryside and found some wedge tombs and portal tombs that were prehistoric. They are just in a cow pasture off the road, no trail going to them, sometimes a sign pointing in the general direction and maybe steps built into the stone wall to get over from the road. Some were from 4000 BC! Amazing. And the sun had started to come out by this point, so it was even better.
With the sun out we went back to the Cliffs of Moher and it was almost a totally different place. It was beautiful in a very different way. No wind so we could hear the birds more. It was around 7p by this time and the sun sets at 9:20p these days! So much sunlight. You almost forget to eat dinner until 9, which is what we did that day and what will probably happen tonight with Madori and myself.
We came back for a feast of white sausage, tomatoes, noodle veg soup, bread, garlic toast, fried rice and Japanese tea. Madori's mother teaches tea ceremonies so she showed us some things. When you serve two cups at once, you fill each halfway, then wait, then fill up each bit by bit alternating pours between cups. It was interesting to learn about Japanese culture in Ireland but that's what this trip is all about!
I went back to the sterile hostel since I had paid already and in the morning I moved to this hostel and I am so much happier. I hadn't met many people at all besides the German students and here I've met some many more people in much less time. At the other hostel, I never even met my roommates because one of us was always sleeping or gone while the other was up but here I'm in the common room and just waiting for Madori to make dinner. It's the same price, just a ten minute walk away so first thing in the morning, I checked out and moved here.
On my walk there, Catherine and Madori drove by, honking, saying they were glad to catch me because they were going to a Slow Food Festival in Lisdoonvarnna, about 15 minute drive away. We went back to the hostel so I could check in and get some food and then took off for the festival. There was a lot of organic, local food and plenty of samples. I think I got full just on samples. Breads, jams, sauces, cookies, loaves, quiche, cheese and much more. It was great. We got some picnic supplies after walking around for an hour (two loops- one to try things and look, the second to buy) and then had another feast outside at the picnic benches, right in the wind. It was still great and we all shared with everyone.
Coming back to the hostel, Catherine left for Dingle and Madori and I made plans for dinner. Well, not really plans, we just planned on making something for dinner sometime, and after tea and a biscuit (cookie) I went for a nap and now I'm blogging and emailing and then will read until she appears. Probably pasta, leftovers from the Slow Food Festival, a bottle of wine we bought (for 10 euro it was the cheapest I've seen outside of cheap convenience stores) and whatever else we find.
I'm sitting by the fire now and there around about a dozen people in the common room which is a little lounge area by the fire and two big dining tables. I'm apparently the person to go to with questions and request. An Australian, Megan, just asked me if I could email her my pictures of the cliffs because "they were better than the postcards"! That sure made me feel good.
An American from California, Heather is studying for her Masters in London and first asked me if I thought it was ok to put her coat straight on the stove to dry but I suggested on the back of the rocker so it didn't melt. :) Also, she asked why people were putting newspaper in their shoes by the fire so I told her it was to absorb more liquid and let them air out more and that maybe she could take out the insoles, too. People are funny sometimes. I have no idea if my answers to her were right, but I obviously seemed certain enough that she followed them.
I just saw a guy walk by with a Seattle Mariners shirt and he's from just South of Olympia. He just finished studying in Austria so is traveling before he goes back home. Good idea. It costs so much to get her it's good to use the time once you're already here to travel.
14 May 2009
Staying on the left, free Nutella and hauling seaweed
A lot to catch up on again.
Saturday night I went to Corine's. I'm never sure if my CS hosts want to to arrive hungry and eat together or full because they don't have the time, money or desire to feed me. Corine wanted me to arrive hungry and then gave me the choice between liver or lamb. I chose liver but she made bacon also (not like our bacon, less cooked and much wider but still thinly cut) just in case I didn't like the liver. It was not too bad. Kind of gamey texture like venison but not a really overwhelming taste. We went out for drinks and I got a Beamish which is made in Cork.
The next day, Eleanor and Jen took me to Kinsale, about a 30 minute drive from Cork on the coast. It's a pleasant little harbour town with a star fort in it and lots of little shops. We explored the fort a bit, drove through an antique car show and then had lunch and wandered. In Europe, it's often more expensive to eat in than to take away because they want you to pay for the table so our sandwiches and pasteries were 1 euro more each but it was nice anyway.
On the way back, Eleanor let me drive! She got us out of Kinsale and on the main road and then let me take over. It wasn't too bad and beside one bike I had to pass (with no shoulder and a road barely wide enough for two American cars- their cars are much smaller in general) they said I did pretty well. I even got to do a few roundabouts which is exciting since the steering is on the right side of the car and you drive on the left side of the road. We switched back before getting back to Cork because there were some really strange roundabouts and I shouldn't do them on my first day driving in Ireland. Even Eleanor got confused as to which lane she should be in.
I went to their apartment for tea and biscuits (our cookies) and pretty soon about 7 of us were there and I had to figure out what they were all saying with their accents and the volume. It was pretty entertaining and good craic (a good time in Irish terminology! not the drug!). One of them guided me back to Corine's and she made lamb for me! Yummy! Great to have French hosts who cook amazingly! :)
The next morning, Monday, I caught a bus to Killarney where there is a lot of hiking. I got to the hostel and found out Killarney National Park is an hour's walk! I figured I would just rent a bike but when I got to my room to drop off my stuff, there was a German girl, Sabine, who had a car and was going there too so I got a lift (not ride- ride implies something different- sexual) with her to the shop (grocery store) and to the park where we had a picnic on a really nice sunny day, explored Muckross House and went to Torc Waterfall. She then drove me to some points on that end of the Ring of Kerry, Molls Gap and a few others with great views and the sun was setting so it was nice (just a bit chilly). We came back to the hostel and made dinner- just pasta- and went to bed after internet. She was leaving the next day to go back to Germany so gave me some of her leftover juice and nutella. Yeah!
The next morning, Tuesday, I got the bus to Dingle and on my connecting bus I noticed the American couple in front of me were passing back and forth a bag of Trader Joe's Rainbow Trail Mix. I commented on it and started talking with them and it turns out they're from Bellingham! Small world! They were nice and chatty and had family they were meeting up with so it didn't work out to make plans together.
I met up with my CS host for that night, Kristin but while she was finishing up some errands I went for a walk out along the harbour to the lighthouse and just beyond. There is a dolphin, Fungi, who has made the harbour his home and they do boat tour out to the harbour to see him. I noticed one of the boats and soon I saw a whole pod of dolphins doing flips and swimming alongside the boat. It was great.
I came back and met Kristin. She's American and really cool. We went foraging for plants for a salad and she taught me some plants I can eat that I found on the peninsula. Then we went to collect seaweed from the beach and put it in her car to use as fertilizer. The next day we took it to the garden and she let me pick some more plants for salads at the hostel, including some mint for tea.
Wednesday I took a minibus archaeological tour of the Dingle Peninsula recommended by Rick Steves. The bus only held 12 people so it was small enough to visit many smaller sites on the peninsula and were able to go into a beehive hut. On the tour I met a nice couple from Seattle. They took me out to lunch after which was great and then we wandered town together for a few hours. We went to an antique shop and I found some great mostly white shell earrings for 2 euro! That's nothing! Only about $2.60 or something. They're really pretty but quite large. For a 2 euro souvenir though, I won't complain. :)
Back at the hostel I made dinner (pasta) but realised I didn't have lettuce to add to my weeds so I shared with someone who did have some. We just made one big salad with his lettuce, my weeds, pepper and mushrooms. It was pretty good with some balsamic vinegar on it. There are usually free food shelves so it was good to have some different food besides my pasta.
There were some nice people at the hostel but one really loud obnoxious Canadian (nothing against Canadians- she just was one). She was really loud (most Europeans are quite and respectful) and was making fun of the German girl she met and was traveling with because she didn't know certain English words (she was mixing up mermaid and nightmare for some reason- maybe they're similar in German). The girl put up with it but I would have not. When I got up to the dorm, her bags were all over my bed and she said I 'hadn't claimed it properly' because I hadn't undone the sheets but she still moved them since I had my stuff out at the foot of the bed and I was getting ready to go to sleep then. Crazy Canadian! Strange girl. I'm glad she left really early this morning so I didn't have to listen to her again.
Well, today I'm just taking it easy. Just interneting, going to the ATM and making lunch. I met a girl from Australia who is working in Wales and has her car here so she is letting me go with her to Doolin this afternoon. She is out cycling now and should be back around 3 so I will finish this, do my errands and make some lunch and come back to the internet until she gets back and then we leave!
Doolin is really near the Cliffs of Moher and I think I'll stay there for the weekend. Lot of hiking and stuff to do. Hopefully I'll get at least one good day of weather. From there, I go to Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands, overnight (probably Monday night) and then on to Galway for a few days. I like to stay in one place for the weekend to relax and buses usually run less or not at all on Sundays so it's good to stay in one place for a few days. Plus shops may not be open on Sundays so it's good to get food on Saturday and then cook it on Sunday.
Ok- I'm off in the rain to the ATM and maybe the shop but I think I have some pasta and sauce left from last night so I'll just make that again for lunch.
Saturday night I went to Corine's. I'm never sure if my CS hosts want to to arrive hungry and eat together or full because they don't have the time, money or desire to feed me. Corine wanted me to arrive hungry and then gave me the choice between liver or lamb. I chose liver but she made bacon also (not like our bacon, less cooked and much wider but still thinly cut) just in case I didn't like the liver. It was not too bad. Kind of gamey texture like venison but not a really overwhelming taste. We went out for drinks and I got a Beamish which is made in Cork.
The next day, Eleanor and Jen took me to Kinsale, about a 30 minute drive from Cork on the coast. It's a pleasant little harbour town with a star fort in it and lots of little shops. We explored the fort a bit, drove through an antique car show and then had lunch and wandered. In Europe, it's often more expensive to eat in than to take away because they want you to pay for the table so our sandwiches and pasteries were 1 euro more each but it was nice anyway.
On the way back, Eleanor let me drive! She got us out of Kinsale and on the main road and then let me take over. It wasn't too bad and beside one bike I had to pass (with no shoulder and a road barely wide enough for two American cars- their cars are much smaller in general) they said I did pretty well. I even got to do a few roundabouts which is exciting since the steering is on the right side of the car and you drive on the left side of the road. We switched back before getting back to Cork because there were some really strange roundabouts and I shouldn't do them on my first day driving in Ireland. Even Eleanor got confused as to which lane she should be in.
I went to their apartment for tea and biscuits (our cookies) and pretty soon about 7 of us were there and I had to figure out what they were all saying with their accents and the volume. It was pretty entertaining and good craic (a good time in Irish terminology! not the drug!). One of them guided me back to Corine's and she made lamb for me! Yummy! Great to have French hosts who cook amazingly! :)
The next morning, Monday, I caught a bus to Killarney where there is a lot of hiking. I got to the hostel and found out Killarney National Park is an hour's walk! I figured I would just rent a bike but when I got to my room to drop off my stuff, there was a German girl, Sabine, who had a car and was going there too so I got a lift (not ride- ride implies something different- sexual) with her to the shop (grocery store) and to the park where we had a picnic on a really nice sunny day, explored Muckross House and went to Torc Waterfall. She then drove me to some points on that end of the Ring of Kerry, Molls Gap and a few others with great views and the sun was setting so it was nice (just a bit chilly). We came back to the hostel and made dinner- just pasta- and went to bed after internet. She was leaving the next day to go back to Germany so gave me some of her leftover juice and nutella. Yeah!
The next morning, Tuesday, I got the bus to Dingle and on my connecting bus I noticed the American couple in front of me were passing back and forth a bag of Trader Joe's Rainbow Trail Mix. I commented on it and started talking with them and it turns out they're from Bellingham! Small world! They were nice and chatty and had family they were meeting up with so it didn't work out to make plans together.
I met up with my CS host for that night, Kristin but while she was finishing up some errands I went for a walk out along the harbour to the lighthouse and just beyond. There is a dolphin, Fungi, who has made the harbour his home and they do boat tour out to the harbour to see him. I noticed one of the boats and soon I saw a whole pod of dolphins doing flips and swimming alongside the boat. It was great.
I came back and met Kristin. She's American and really cool. We went foraging for plants for a salad and she taught me some plants I can eat that I found on the peninsula. Then we went to collect seaweed from the beach and put it in her car to use as fertilizer. The next day we took it to the garden and she let me pick some more plants for salads at the hostel, including some mint for tea.
Wednesday I took a minibus archaeological tour of the Dingle Peninsula recommended by Rick Steves. The bus only held 12 people so it was small enough to visit many smaller sites on the peninsula and were able to go into a beehive hut. On the tour I met a nice couple from Seattle. They took me out to lunch after which was great and then we wandered town together for a few hours. We went to an antique shop and I found some great mostly white shell earrings for 2 euro! That's nothing! Only about $2.60 or something. They're really pretty but quite large. For a 2 euro souvenir though, I won't complain. :)
Back at the hostel I made dinner (pasta) but realised I didn't have lettuce to add to my weeds so I shared with someone who did have some. We just made one big salad with his lettuce, my weeds, pepper and mushrooms. It was pretty good with some balsamic vinegar on it. There are usually free food shelves so it was good to have some different food besides my pasta.
There were some nice people at the hostel but one really loud obnoxious Canadian (nothing against Canadians- she just was one). She was really loud (most Europeans are quite and respectful) and was making fun of the German girl she met and was traveling with because she didn't know certain English words (she was mixing up mermaid and nightmare for some reason- maybe they're similar in German). The girl put up with it but I would have not. When I got up to the dorm, her bags were all over my bed and she said I 'hadn't claimed it properly' because I hadn't undone the sheets but she still moved them since I had my stuff out at the foot of the bed and I was getting ready to go to sleep then. Crazy Canadian! Strange girl. I'm glad she left really early this morning so I didn't have to listen to her again.
Well, today I'm just taking it easy. Just interneting, going to the ATM and making lunch. I met a girl from Australia who is working in Wales and has her car here so she is letting me go with her to Doolin this afternoon. She is out cycling now and should be back around 3 so I will finish this, do my errands and make some lunch and come back to the internet until she gets back and then we leave!
Doolin is really near the Cliffs of Moher and I think I'll stay there for the weekend. Lot of hiking and stuff to do. Hopefully I'll get at least one good day of weather. From there, I go to Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands, overnight (probably Monday night) and then on to Galway for a few days. I like to stay in one place for the weekend to relax and buses usually run less or not at all on Sundays so it's good to stay in one place for a few days. Plus shops may not be open on Sundays so it's good to get food on Saturday and then cook it on Sunday.
Ok- I'm off in the rain to the ATM and maybe the shop but I think I have some pasta and sauce left from last night so I'll just make that again for lunch.
09 May 2009
How many ways are there to have whiskey in Ireland?
I feel like this is Tour de Whiskey the past few days! Where I left off in my blog, I was in Cashel at a hostel where there were half dozen workers from Northern Ireland staying and they were in the kitchen drinking and listening to music and chatting... what you might expect is the stereotypical Irish evening but it was true. I went in and they invited me to sit down and one guy made me a drink but wouldn't tell me what it was. All I knew was whiskey. I later found out it was a Hot Toddy (medicine) with about two parts hot water, some sugar stirred in, then one part whiskey (it was Scotch whiskey though- shame). It was really good. They were chatty, but I was a sentence behind in deciphering their accent so it was hard to keep up.
The next day I went to explore Hore Abbey (yes, pronounced "whore") which is the abbey ruins and no entry gate or anything... you just have to walk through a cow pasture and avoid manure on the path to get to it. It has a great view of the Rock of Cashel, which was my next stop.
The Rock of Cashel is very cool- up on a hill in the town of Cashel and it's also an abbey ruin but they have tours and it's easier to see and understand than the abbey was. I met a gal from Saskatchewan and then found two people from Wisconsin from the hostel. There was a tour starting just after I got there and went I went to the meeting point, I saw three Rick Steves' Ireland books open and I just laughed because I hadn't seen any yet and now I saw three at once! I took the tour then went into town with the girls from Wisconsin. We found a €6 lunch and then a €40 sweater for one of the gals who was quite cold. A good souvenir I think. I went back to the hostel to check email and sort out couches and hostels for the next week or so and then went to top up my phone (add minutes to it) and catch the bus to Cork.
The bus was late by twenty minutes but I got to Cork and was greeted by my host, Bryan. I'm his first couchsurfer and it's a lot of fun here. He's in a house with three other people and we went to a house party at his friends last night... it was great. There, the girls were drinking Jameson and coke and Jameson and 7-up. After a beer, I joined in the Jameson and 7-up. It was good. I'm on to tea and juice now as I think most people are today after last night (I left before they went into town so I can only imagine how they're feeling).
Today is a relax day. Nice to be online again and do some researching for my next few weeks. As of yesterday I hadn't had anything planned for couches or hostels beyond Cork so now at least I know of youth hostels and have sent out couch requests for the next week in Killarney, Dingle and Doolin.
Today I go to Corine's house for the next two nights and on Sunday Eleanore, one of Bryan's friends, said she could take me to Kinsale which is a small harbour town that I was going to do by bus, but by car would be far better. Hmmm.... maybe she'd even let me drive part way... that would be exciting!
The next day I went to explore Hore Abbey (yes, pronounced "whore") which is the abbey ruins and no entry gate or anything... you just have to walk through a cow pasture and avoid manure on the path to get to it. It has a great view of the Rock of Cashel, which was my next stop.
The Rock of Cashel is very cool- up on a hill in the town of Cashel and it's also an abbey ruin but they have tours and it's easier to see and understand than the abbey was. I met a gal from Saskatchewan and then found two people from Wisconsin from the hostel. There was a tour starting just after I got there and went I went to the meeting point, I saw three Rick Steves' Ireland books open and I just laughed because I hadn't seen any yet and now I saw three at once! I took the tour then went into town with the girls from Wisconsin. We found a €6 lunch and then a €40 sweater for one of the gals who was quite cold. A good souvenir I think. I went back to the hostel to check email and sort out couches and hostels for the next week or so and then went to top up my phone (add minutes to it) and catch the bus to Cork.
The bus was late by twenty minutes but I got to Cork and was greeted by my host, Bryan. I'm his first couchsurfer and it's a lot of fun here. He's in a house with three other people and we went to a house party at his friends last night... it was great. There, the girls were drinking Jameson and coke and Jameson and 7-up. After a beer, I joined in the Jameson and 7-up. It was good. I'm on to tea and juice now as I think most people are today after last night (I left before they went into town so I can only imagine how they're feeling).
Today is a relax day. Nice to be online again and do some researching for my next few weeks. As of yesterday I hadn't had anything planned for couches or hostels beyond Cork so now at least I know of youth hostels and have sent out couch requests for the next week in Killarney, Dingle and Doolin.
Today I go to Corine's house for the next two nights and on Sunday Eleanore, one of Bryan's friends, said she could take me to Kinsale which is a small harbour town that I was going to do by bus, but by car would be far better. Hmmm.... maybe she'd even let me drive part way... that would be exciting!
07 May 2009
Polish host, French movie, Swiss dinner guests and Northern Irish partiers! Yes, I am still in Ireland.
So my last day in Dublin was great. I went to the bus station and found that I could catch a bus to Kilkenny in 8 minutes or in two hours and 8 minutes. I was very hungry so I opted for the later bus. I followed part of the walking tour in Rick Steves' travel book and part way though, went into a church that he just mentions, St. Mary's Pro-Cathedral. It isn't technically a cathedral because the pope hasn't said it is yet- but St. Patrick's and Christ Church in Dublin both are- but St. Mary's is the largest church in Dublin. I went in and there were people in the pews and I sat down and a choir rehersal with the organ began in the balcony. I couldn't see the choir, but I could hear the director and it was definately a rehersal. It was a good way to spend time before the bus. I stayed maybe a half hour.
The bus to Kilkenny was good, but long. Maybe two and a half hours. When I got to Kilkenny, Nina, my host came to meet me. She is Polish- I haven't had an Irish host yet! She took me to her house and I met her son, Bart, and had homemade soup (yum!) and then worked on my computer. She and I then went to a pub for International Movie Night with her friends. They projected a movie onto a screen and played it for everyone in the pub. This week it was The Science Of Sleep, a French movie with the guy from Motorcycle Diaries. It was very good. We had a beer there (her favorite German beer) and then stopped for chips (French fries) at what she said was the best chip shop in town. They were too salty for both of us, so neither of us finished. But they were good.
Today I had my first excitement with bus transfers. Not all stops are at a station and even if they aren't at a station, they are still transfer points. I had two of them and tried to talk to people at the stops to be sure I was on the right bus. Most everyone here is very helpful and will tell you more than you'd ever want to know about something you didn't ask about at all.
I found my way to Clonmel for my first transfer, about 20 minute wait, then on to Cahil, where it was an hour wait so I went to the castle, just near my stop. It was free as I bought the Heritage Card which gets me into many sites for free. They told me to have fun exploring the castle and it really was exploring- like a big kid jungle gym. There were stair (steep and without rails) and you could walk along the top of the castle and up the towers, passing the jail cells, and up to the lookout towers. It was very good. And free is never a bad thing.
Arriving in Cashel, I found my way to the hostel (my first hostel of the trip!) and met a few American girls traveling after graduating and a few Swiss people who I had dinner with (pizza, soup, salad, cheese and 7-up finish off with Ferer Rocher... a feast). They have just gone to bed and there are a half dozen Northern Irish guys in the kitchen of the hostel listening to traditional Irish music and I saw a bottle of whiskey... or is it whisky... either Scottish or Irish add the "e" in whisky... can't remember. They sound like they're having fun. They offered me a drink, so I may take them up on it before going to bed.
The bus to Kilkenny was good, but long. Maybe two and a half hours. When I got to Kilkenny, Nina, my host came to meet me. She is Polish- I haven't had an Irish host yet! She took me to her house and I met her son, Bart, and had homemade soup (yum!) and then worked on my computer. She and I then went to a pub for International Movie Night with her friends. They projected a movie onto a screen and played it for everyone in the pub. This week it was The Science Of Sleep, a French movie with the guy from Motorcycle Diaries. It was very good. We had a beer there (her favorite German beer) and then stopped for chips (French fries) at what she said was the best chip shop in town. They were too salty for both of us, so neither of us finished. But they were good.
Today I had my first excitement with bus transfers. Not all stops are at a station and even if they aren't at a station, they are still transfer points. I had two of them and tried to talk to people at the stops to be sure I was on the right bus. Most everyone here is very helpful and will tell you more than you'd ever want to know about something you didn't ask about at all.
I found my way to Clonmel for my first transfer, about 20 minute wait, then on to Cahil, where it was an hour wait so I went to the castle, just near my stop. It was free as I bought the Heritage Card which gets me into many sites for free. They told me to have fun exploring the castle and it really was exploring- like a big kid jungle gym. There were stair (steep and without rails) and you could walk along the top of the castle and up the towers, passing the jail cells, and up to the lookout towers. It was very good. And free is never a bad thing.
Arriving in Cashel, I found my way to the hostel (my first hostel of the trip!) and met a few American girls traveling after graduating and a few Swiss people who I had dinner with (pizza, soup, salad, cheese and 7-up finish off with Ferer Rocher... a feast). They have just gone to bed and there are a half dozen Northern Irish guys in the kitchen of the hostel listening to traditional Irish music and I saw a bottle of whiskey... or is it whisky... either Scottish or Irish add the "e" in whisky... can't remember. They sound like they're having fun. They offered me a drink, so I may take them up on it before going to bed.
04 May 2009
Polish Mass, Polish Sweets, Point Break and Octopus Sushi! Yes, I am in Dublin!
Busy few days without a chance to Blog. A lot to catch up on.
Friday I met with Elana and her sister Daniella for a bus tour of Hill of Tara and Newgrange. It was very cool. Very old obviously and full of prehistoric history. Met one of the drivers, Peter, while I was eating my lunch. He gave me suggestions on what to do and what to avoid. Also met some Americans there that were nice. I wound up going on a Literary Pub Crawl with them and then out for more drinks. They were so nice they even paid for a taxi for me to get back to Ibrahims house.
The next day I met with them to see Book of Kells, a really old book with beautiful artwork and lettering. The Long Hall, the library, was very Harry Potter-ish and I think I liked it more than the Book of Kells itself.
That morning, I met up with my new host, Jean-Christophe, who is Italian (I do not think there are any Irish people in Ireland). I am using his laptop now and it has a French keyboard so I have not found the apostrophe key yet so I sound very formal. I am not. Also, letters are in different places, mainly a m w z q and the . and numbers you use shift key. Sorry if things are misspelt.
Saturday we went for pizza- if an Italian tells me it is the best pizza in Ireland, I believe him. We went with his girlfriend and her surfer then to Phoenix Park for a CS BBQ. We got lost in the park for over an hour but once we gave up we found it. Of course. I stayed and the other three left to see a movie. After the BBQ I got a ride with someone but we were seven people to a five person car so two people rode in the trunk! It was funny. After going to someones house for a bit we met with other CSers for the weekly CS drinks at Elegance Bar. It was fun to meet people.
Sunday we went Joanna's Church for Polish Mass. It was interesting and had lots of incense and was in a very old church. We then wandered around town together to parks and shops and for coffee. It was really laid back and nice. On the way back to Jean-Christophe's house Joanna took us to a Polish shop where we got sweets and pretzels. We ate them with wine and sun dried tomatoes while watching Point Break.
Today is a Bank Holiday so much was closed. I slept in, did laundry, went to Tesco and bought cheap food for the day then met up with Jean-Christophe and Joanna and went for sushi. I had octopus! I decided to try something new.
Tomorrow I am in Dublin then the next day I take the bus to Kilkenny for a day. I will be sad to leave Dublin, but good to keep moving.
Friday I met with Elana and her sister Daniella for a bus tour of Hill of Tara and Newgrange. It was very cool. Very old obviously and full of prehistoric history. Met one of the drivers, Peter, while I was eating my lunch. He gave me suggestions on what to do and what to avoid. Also met some Americans there that were nice. I wound up going on a Literary Pub Crawl with them and then out for more drinks. They were so nice they even paid for a taxi for me to get back to Ibrahims house.
The next day I met with them to see Book of Kells, a really old book with beautiful artwork and lettering. The Long Hall, the library, was very Harry Potter-ish and I think I liked it more than the Book of Kells itself.
That morning, I met up with my new host, Jean-Christophe, who is Italian (I do not think there are any Irish people in Ireland). I am using his laptop now and it has a French keyboard so I have not found the apostrophe key yet so I sound very formal. I am not. Also, letters are in different places, mainly a m w z q and the . and numbers you use shift key. Sorry if things are misspelt.
Saturday we went for pizza- if an Italian tells me it is the best pizza in Ireland, I believe him. We went with his girlfriend and her surfer then to Phoenix Park for a CS BBQ. We got lost in the park for over an hour but once we gave up we found it. Of course. I stayed and the other three left to see a movie. After the BBQ I got a ride with someone but we were seven people to a five person car so two people rode in the trunk! It was funny. After going to someones house for a bit we met with other CSers for the weekly CS drinks at Elegance Bar. It was fun to meet people.
Sunday we went Joanna's Church for Polish Mass. It was interesting and had lots of incense and was in a very old church. We then wandered around town together to parks and shops and for coffee. It was really laid back and nice. On the way back to Jean-Christophe's house Joanna took us to a Polish shop where we got sweets and pretzels. We ate them with wine and sun dried tomatoes while watching Point Break.
Today is a Bank Holiday so much was closed. I slept in, did laundry, went to Tesco and bought cheap food for the day then met up with Jean-Christophe and Joanna and went for sushi. I had octopus! I decided to try something new.
Tomorrow I am in Dublin then the next day I take the bus to Kilkenny for a day. I will be sad to leave Dublin, but good to keep moving.
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